A slice of France in downtown Nicosia
Brasserie Au Bon Plaisir

Originally established in Ayios Dometios, where it flourished for years providing those intimate occasions for the truly romantic, Brasserie Au Bon Plaisir has relocated to the middle of the metropolis, just off Kennedy Avenue.

We arrived on a Thursday evening, which is always the best time to visit any restaurant that has Gallic connections because they receive their fresh produce that morning from Larnaca airport. If your taste is for channel fish, oysters, langoustine or mussels, then Thursday is your day. Bon Plaisir is synonymous with the name Gatienne for she is the chatelaine, and controls all that moves from kitchen to table. When you pass the portals of this restaurant you are in no doubt that you are in France, the only thing missing is the lingering smell of Gauloise.

We are greeted by Sophie, the waitress, who shows us to a table for two that is well furnished and served two glasses of ouzo while we contemplate the menu, in three languages, Greek, English and French. The starters include fresh oysters, crab and a range of chef-made pat?, rillettes and veloute, as well as Foie gras with Madeira sauce.

On previous visits I have had the fresh mussels mariniere, but on this occasion want them in a curry sauce, and although the mussels are on the main menu, it is no problem if I want them as a starter. The companion is determined to have a slice of the famous quiche, which she declares is delicious. There is also a selection of cold cuts that one may choose that include hams from Paris and Bayonne, goose and duck rillettes as well as a host of French cheeses; all of these can be had with a variety of salads.

The wine list is extensive, French, and very reasonably priced, when compared with some of the outrageous prices being demanded for local wines in other establishments. We choose a light Muscadet that is on offer at €14, and just right for the courses.

My companion is in a mood for fish and while the brasserie has a number of channel fish on offer she wants trout, which is served with almonds and a small plate of perfectly cooked seasonal vegetables. There are a number of specials being prepared in the kitchen that include a calf tongue salad and most interestingly, an ‘andouillette’ that is made from the calf’s stomach, wrapped in the lining, and served with a hot mustard sauce; this is for me; the last time I had it was in Cluny, and it had an unforgettable taste. This dish is served with the best French fries I have ever had.
The main meat dishes in nearly all restaurants have improved now that we import our beef and lamb from around the world but Au Bon Plaisir really offers something different with a choice of wild boar; horse-meat, either tartare or pan-fried; French steak, either Charolais or Limousin filet priced at €24; and French lamb rib.
The companion declares the trout is perfectly cooked and very much to her liking; my ‘andouillette’ is memorable.

The restaurant, which can seat 75 spread over two floors and a veranda, is now filling up; a large mixed party to my right are consuming the range of ‘CH’TI’ beers, which are a specialty of the house. There are groups of young women dining al fresco, and a couple heading for the intimacy of the upper floor.

Everything about the brasserie is imbued with a feminine touch, and while one assumes there is male hand in the kitchen, there is no sign of one in the body of the restaurant. The service is quick, attentive and charming. If I didn’t know we are 100 metres from Grivas Digenis, we could be anywhere in the Midi. You have to try it.
Gatienne prepares for lunch and dinner seven days a week, and also provides a take away service for the discerning but busy office worker.

VITAL STATISTICS
SPECIALTY French cuisine
WHERE 15E, Alasias Street, Nicosia
CONTACT 96 755111
PRICE reasonable