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Wine from greece's sleeping giant, Crete

From last week’s trip to Argentina back to the Mediterranean and Greece’s biggest island, Crete. It is not by accident that Crete accounts for 20 per cent of Greek wine production; the island is the sleeping giant of Greek wine and its entrance to the premium market has been worth waiting for.

The island is fortunate to be home to a number of privately-owned wineries. One of them is Michalakis Estate, situated at the centre of the island, high on the hills at 600m. The Michalakis brothers started out in 1962, producing their first wine in 1965. In 2003, they moved to a new, modern winery in the rural region of Rafina, Kazarma, 32km from Heraklion. “The true secret of making good wines,” says general manager Demetris Gouravas, “is not just the modern winery and its technology or the people involved. The secret of good wine lies in the plants, the blessed soils and favourable climate conditions and the north wind of the Aegean Sea”.

Our tasting of Michalakis Estate wines took place at what I consider the Mecca of all wine activity in the Famagusta region – the Cava Restaurant. More than 40 members of the newly founded Famagusta Oenophilis Club (friends of wine) gathered to taste the wines and share their views with Demetris.

2008 Vilana, Michalakis Estate, Regional Wine of Crete, abv 13%

The chief white wine cultivar of Iraklio prefecture produces fresh, low alcohol wines perfectly suited to quaffing in the region of origin. Vilana has a yellow gold colour; there are flowers and citrus fruit, lemon in particular, on the nose along with notes of granny smith apples and green tea. On the palate it is fresh and fragrant, crispy acidity, clean. Medium body and dry with traces of minerality. Excellent with dolmades, seafood and goat cheese. €9.10

2008 Evanthis, Michalakis Estate, Regional Wine of Heraklion, abv 12.5%

From vineyards at Metaxochori, this is a blend of 45% Plyto, 35% Sauvignon Blanc and 20% Vilana. Plyto is yet another indigenous Cretan variety saved from extinction. Straw yellow in colour, the nose is a combination of white flowers, citrus, with pineapple and peach aromas with some intensity. There are also some vegetal Sauvignon Blanc characteristics both on the nose and palate. The palate is fresh and smooth, a bit tar, but pleasantly sharp, balanced, dry and medium body, with a medium aftertaste of grass and yellow fruit. It is excellent with white soft cheese and goat cheese as well as local fish recipes and seafood. €12.50

2008 Chardonnay, Michalakis Estate, Regional Wine of Heraklion, abv 14.5%

This Chardonnay is aged for two months in oak barrels to add some complexity. Intense gold in colour, on the nose fairly clean notes of mineral, wood and butter, honeycomb, citrus blossoms and pear. The wine is dry with medium acidity, medium body and rich and fatty, with flavour notes of oak, pineapple and pear, balanced sharpness with a long taste and fragrances in the mouth. Combine with lobster thermidor, oven baked fish, seafood pasta, rich flavoured cheese or chicken with creamy sauces. €16

2008 Gold Cuvee, Michalakis Estate, Regional Wine of Heraklion, abv 13.5%

This is an interesting blend of Malvazia Aromatica 40%, Moschato Spinas 40% and Chardonnay 10%. The colour is bright straw, the nose intensely aromatic - full of white flowers, particularly roses and jasmine along with intense fragrances from quince, peaches and pineapple and a squirt of grapefruit. Dry and medium body, the flavours are consistent with the nose, so fresh and fruity that the first impression is of sweetness, but crisp acidity provides the structure, and the finish is long and just off dry, with juicy fresh citrus flavours lingering. Great aperitif for spring and summer sipping, but with enough personality to stand up well to Asian flavoured cuisine, roast fish and with rich flavoured cheese. €13.75

2008 Atarachos Rosé, Michalakis Estate, Regional Wine of Heraklion, abv 13%

This attractive rosé is made from the indigenous red grape Mandilari. Bright rose colour reminiscent of pomegranate juice, the nose is packed with complex aromas of fresh fruit, plum, red cherry, strawberry and gooseberry with some bacon hints. The wine is nicely balanced, with firm structure, dry and medium body, with layers of cherry, plum and strawberry in the mid palate, spicy yet smooth finish with some fresh cool tannin evident. This rosé is versatile with food, it can be best enjoyed with Chinese barbecue chicken or Cajun shrimp, dim sum and many other Chinese recipes, charcutterie, fish and seafood and generally with Cretan meze. €13

2007 Kotsifali, Michalakis Estate, Regional Wine of Crete, abv 13.5%

This red grape variety is Crete’s secret weapon. Michalakis Estate Kotsifali has a deep, ruby red colour with brown reflections. The wine is aged for six months in French and American oak with further reductive ageing for 12 months in the bottle. On the nose sour cherries and cassis, followed by sunny tomatoes and mature plum with some earthy notes, spice and leather combine with tobacco and vanilla. Mouth-full with fine tannins, dry and full body, its red fruit flavours lead to a long, pure finish. Excellent with lamb cooked with vegetables and herbs or beef stifado or stroganoff. €12.50

2007 Merlot, Michalakis Estate, Regional Wine of Heraklion, abv 14%

This Merlot is aged for 12 months in French and American oak. Deep red colour, complex and a dark, enticing nose of mature dark fruit, blackberry, spices and nuances of tobacco, cherry, chocolate and roasted almonds, dry fruit and plums with hints of green pepper. Dry, full body and flavourful palate with layered complexity and good depth; ripe tannins and good acidity, supple texture, with delicious fruit and spice in the mouth, the finish is long and lingering. Try with roast lamb loin chops, rich flavoured cheese, and filet mignon with balsamic glaze or deep fried turkey. Age properly for six more years. €18.50

2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, Michalakis Estate, Regional Wine of Heraklion, abv 13.5%

Kept for 13 months in American and French oak barrels with further reductive ageing in the bottle for 12 months, this dark crimson Cab displays aromas of blackcurrants, blueberries, dark plums and chocolate mint, white pepper, with traces of vanilla and tobacco. The palate is long and concentrated with sweet spice, cassis and blackberry, balanced by appealing, soft, mouth-coating tannins that provide the structure and balance. There is also an alluring savoury edge to the wine. Think of any red meat recipe, strong flavoured cheese and heartier red pastas. Age properly for eight more years. €18.50

2006 Gold Cuvee, Michalakis Estate, Regional Wine of Heraklion, abv 13.5%

A blend of Mandilari 42% and Syrah 58% kept in American and French oak barrels for 12 months. Deep ruby red, black fruit, blackberry and cherry fruit masked with herb, earth, leather and smoke. Full bodied and dry, the aeration softens the tannins, an intense wine flavoured with plum and currants, and savoury, black pepper finish. This is very good with spicy Mexican or Cajun food, rich beef stew cooked with red wine and pasta arrabiata. €15

For more information contact Andreas Kyzas at Cava Restaurant (Tel: 99 336470)