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Wines: The princess of Barbaresco
Cyprus wine afficianados enjoying Gaya wines
Smart, elegant and charming but above all dynamic and passionate about the family wines, Gaia Gaja was on the island recently to present the Gaja story and its importance to the wine history of Italy.
Her father, Angelo Gaja, one of the leading figures of Piedmont, almost single-handedly put Barbaresco on the fine-wine map. Since taking over the family winery in the late 1960s, Gaja has helped transform the once sleepy Barbaresco into a centre of Italian winemaking and turn Nebbiolo into a popular grape. He also pioneered the development of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Chardonnay as stand alone varietals, a radical move in the region. Never content to rest on his laurels, he acquired an estate in Barolo in 1996, invested in Bolgheri in Tuscany and has added a Brunello to his stable.
Angelo came from a family of winemakers and revolutionised the wine business in Barbaresco and beyond. Having studied in France, Gaja was responsible for the introduction of temperature control fermentation, malolactic fermentation and French barriques along with the use of the French varieties. Other producers have made huge contributions to the emergence of this hilly, misty, truffle-rich corner of northwest Italy as the country’s leading red wine region, but Gaja has done more than anyone to transform the fortunes of Barbaresco and Barolo.
Gaja wines aren’t cheap and Gaia defended the prices by pointing out that in lesser vintages, such as 2002, the family decided not to make any red wine. She also claimed the wines are up there with the greatest wines in the world. Not everyone asks, let alone achieves, such prices.
Piedmont doesn’t only produce wines at this level. In fact, Nebbiolo accounts for a mere five per cent of the region’s plantings. Two other red varieties – juicy, easy drinking Dolcetto and wilder, more acidic Barbera – are considerably cheaper and made in much greater quantities. For all that, it is Nebbiolo that draws me back to Piedmont – it’s that combination of austerity, firm tannins and sweet, ethereal fruit.
The portfolio is led by a number of Barbaresco crus (another Gaja innovation – the bottling of single vineyard wines) such as the Sori Tildin, Sori San Lorenzo and Costa Russi. There are two Barolo crus – Sperss (meaning nostalgia) as well as Conteisa Cerequio, produced at the rented Gromis estate. In addition, the super-Piemontese wine Sito Moresco is a delicious blend of Nebbiolo, Barbera and Merlot. Using French varieties, he produces Darmagi (Cabernet Sauvignon) and Gaia e Rey (Chardonnay).
Eight wines were tested, starting with Gaja’s first Chardonnay vineyard and named after Gaia herself and Angelo’s grandmother - Rey. On the steep slopes of the Langhe hills with their calcareous clay soil, Chardonnay produces one of the finest white wines. The 2008 Rossj Bass, Langhe, Piedmonte (€58) was named after Angelo Gaja’s younger daughter Rossana (Rossj). The wine is produced from grapes grown in several estate-owned vineyards; this one has a touch of Sauvignon Blanc and spends less time in barrique than most of Gaja’s other wines. Golden colour, on the nose there is a fine perfume of citrus fruits, apple and flowers with a hint of honey. Full-bodied, the palate has considerable depth and elegant body. Packed with lemon and honey, this is a pretty clean Chardonnay with definite character and good acidity, with a fresh lingering finish. Excellent with risotto and white fish grilled recipes or served with slightly sweetened cream sauces.
Next we tasted two wines from Ca’Marcanda estate. As Gaia explained, the winery’s name comes from the Piemontese dialect and means ‘house of endless negotiations’. It refers to the hundreds of hours her father spent to convince the property’s previous owners to sell. 2007 Ca’ Marcanda Promis, Bolgheri (€28), meaning promise, truly lives up to its name. The grapes are grown in the rich, dark soils of the Ca’Marcanda vineyard. A delightful wine that combines the elegance and suppleness of Merlot (55%) and Syrah (35%) with the austerity of Sangiovese (10%). Full-bodied red loaded with ripe fruit, spices, leather and grilled herbs. The wine offers terrific density and richness in an engaging, accessible style with tones of spice and sheer class. Enjoy with pasta and garlic –cream tomato sauce, in fact any pasta will complement this wine or a nice cut of beef. Keep until 2014.
Ca’ Marcanda Magari, Bolgheri (€41), principally from Merlot (55%) and Syrah (35%), but with 10% of Sangiovese which still comes from Montalcino. The Tuscan town of Montalcino is the ideal home for the Sangiovese grape. Inky purple colour, deep, smokey, cherry, blackcurrants and blackberries with a touch of fresh mint and a hint of coffee, silky and smooth on the palate. Not quite as intense as Promis, but deep and dry with great extract of flavour and dusty tannins. Long and intense herbal influenced flavours on the finish. Serve with foie gras, roast prime rib, duck and pasta with ground meat sauce as well as fresh creamy cheeses.
2004 Pieve Santa Restituta, Rennina, Brunello di Montalcino, DOCG Toscana (€95). An excellent, powerful red, the elegant nose shows more berries and minerals and less oak than most Brunello. Then silky, suave and graceful on the palate, with compelling inner mouth floral perfume and a wonderfully pliant texture. If anything, this wine is even more intense on the suavely tannic, extremely long finish than in the middle, as its underlying minerality gives it outstanding grip and finesse. Enjoy it with Beef Carpacio, grilled rib steaks, pork or roast duck, eggplants with pasta and Parmigiano Reggiano, pasta con funghi or spring lamb.
2007 Sito Moresco, Langhe, Piedmonte (€35). Back north and this red is a blend of Nebbiolo (35%), Merlot (35%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (30%). Combining complexity and longevity with refinement and accessibility, this wine is a ruby red colour that displays a pure nose loaded with red fruit. It has a fruity elegant taste of dark berries with spice notes; good balance in the mouth through to a fresh finish, a fine wine with silky tannins. Food friendly and a crowd pleaser enjoyed with a hearty fare or enjoyable as a cocktail.
2006 Barbaresco, Gaja, Barbaresco DOCG (€160) still fresh, mid ruby red in the glass. On the nose, it is surprisingly open, obvious aromas of forest fruit and plums, along with some floral perfumes, tar, wood and spices, liquorice and coffee scents. A classy wine with its smooth, velvety texture and silky, elegant, ingrained tannins that round out the inviting finish. This wine is all about structure and balance, a little light on the mid palate but the initial attack and finish are opulent. The alcohol makes itself known on the finish which is lengthy with good fruit, dark berries. Anticipated maturity until 2024, if you have the patience. Enjoy with venison goose, duck, lamb and grilled steak.
If there is a pantheon of modern winemakers, Angelo Gaja would surely be a prestige member. If you know wine, you know his name and his reputation. It is obvious that the supremely talented Gaia has now taken over the day-to-day operations of the winery. The dynasty is in very good hands.
Imported and distributed by La Maison du Vin
