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Restaurant review: Rimi, Nicosia
Watch the world go by at Rimi
An absolute must if you find yourself in the wandering the tiny back streets in summer or winter is the Rimi Restaurant in Nicosia.
With a good friend from the Vatican here last weekend to cover the Papal visit, I decided this was probably the closest he would get to the real taste of Cyprus.
On leaving the mass at the Holy Cross Church, we had a few drinks at a café on Ledra Street and took the short walk through the labyrinth of cobbled streets and there nestled among the vines and capers hanging overhead is the Rimi Hotel and restaurant.
The tables are arranged in the street, which is dimly lit at night, creating a very cosy atmosphere – it has long been one of my favourite al fresco hangouts.
My friend, a big man with a large appetite (he comes from Texas), fancied the much talked about local Kleftico… but alas Kleftico was not available, “because it has been in the oven for a few hours - it is not now fresh, so I will not, under any circumstances serve it,” said our friendly waiter (but I think he just didn’t have the heart to say he had sold it all to the passing Papal trade earlier).
As a rule, I would prefer that the waiter deliver prompt and unnoticed service, not be part of the meal – but with the kleftico disaster we were forced to open a long dialogue on what other options we had.
Once we had parted with the story of our lives to the waiter, the adventures of the indecisive diners, helped with a few glasses of local red, lead to us finally ordering grilled Tsipoura and Mousaka – both of which were well-sized portions, cooked beautifully and came with a delicious salad.
The only disappointment was that the peas and carrots looked like refugees from a Tesco tin and we were occasionally harassed by a manky one-eared cat wandering round the tables.
Despite our indecisiveness, Rimi does not give diners foot-long, confused menus – the fare is simple – Greek, steaks and fish.
So what’s the damage: Garlic bread and sausage starters, Tsipoura (with chips), Mousakka, bottle of red wine, two whiskeys and two bandies – all for just €61.
Be warned - getting to the toilet is like navigating a fire exit in Hitler’s bunker - you have to literally walk down a cellar staircase, so be prepared if you have had a few too many glasses of wine.
Despite a few grumbles, if you are a fan of hearty Greek food, then Rimi has always been perfect for consistent, good, local cooking in a warm convivial atmosphere at a reasonable price.
Go now, if you've never been and you'll definitely keep going back.
Try ordering Kleftico… see what happens.
VITAL STATISTICS
SPECIALITY Cyprus cuisine
WHERE 5 Solonos, Nicosia
CONTACT 22 680153
PRICE €30 per head including drinks
