Cyprus winery produces bottles that reflect where the grapes are grown

The main man at Kalamos Winery, Thanasis Ignatiou has been around wines since his teens in his beloved village of Amargeti in Paphos, and he says, it has been a fascinating and rewarding journey. He likes his wines to be part of the meal, not to dominate it. He admires balanced and enjoyable wines that reflect where the grapes are grown and their variety.

Kalamos Winery is a family-owned business, 20 minutes’ drive from Paphos town. They were cultivating vines when Nicos Ignatiou, Thanasis’ father, decided to start a small business with his two sons, Thanasis and Michalis. The limited-edition wines became a full-range production of white, red, rosés and sweets. It is now the complete winery as far as the product range is concerned: dry and medium-dry whites and rosés, dry reds and sweet Commandaria as well as Zivania plain or oak aged. It currently produces 120,000 bottles annually.

A new label design on the bottles and soon new blood will be joining the winery as Thanasis’ nephew Panayiotis Ignatiou, a graduate of Athens University school of Oenology, joins. That he was to become a winemaker was in his genes. He is currently apprenticing with Yiannis Paraskevopoulos, the famous Greek Oenologist and winemaker in Santorini. The plan, according to Thanasis, is for Panayiotis to continue his practise in the southern hemisphere during the months their vines in Amargeti will be in dormancy and need less attention. His exposure to such a wide variety of locations and winemaking practises will allow his skills and knowhow to flourish and shape him into an open-minded winemaker.

Harvest has already started. “We want good ingredients in the cellar,” says Thanasis, “these last few years of drought have really sharpened our skills in the vineyard, to pick on pH, acids, and a physical assessment of the vineyard.”

Thanasis is seeking more complexity and intrigue in his wines while ensuring he preserves the purity of the fruit. He has learnt to trust his instincts and the vineyard sites. As a result, there is less winemaking interference and the aim of achieving full expression of the unique grape characters nears. I tasted his wines recently at an event organised by his local distributor Cavaway, in Limassol.

2024 Kalamos Winery Xynisteri, PGI Pafos ABV 12%

A new label and a fresher approach. Light, bright yellow colour and a lively, slightly complex bouquet that evokes fresh citrus and orchard fruits, a touch of yellow tropical fruit and some chalky minerals along with white flowers and herbs. Hits the palate with concentrated lemon and pear flavours, some herbal hints with juicy acidity that provides spine and lift. Offers a good combination of crispiness and finesse and finishes stony, medium longevity, with repeating floral and mineral character. Enjoy this with chicken wrapped in bacon or cold salads made up of sliced grapes, avocado, crunchy cucumber, fresh green leaves, cherry tomatoes and quinoa or cous-cous. €8.50

2021 Kalamos Winery, Alios, PGI Pafos, ABV 12%

Classically styled Xynisteri aged in acacia and oak barrels. Bright yellow colour, ripe stone fruit, yellow apple, passion fruit and acacia flower, with a whiff of savoury spice and vanilla, grass and herbs. Full body with fresh crisp feel. Age shows throughout with some dry fruit in the background, matching seafood risotto or scallops with white butter, roast chicken or lamb as well. €10

2024 Kalamos Winery Rosé, Cabernet Sauvignon, PGI Pafos, ABV 14%

The colour is inviting, reminiscent of ripe, freshly sliced strawberries. The nose reveals a nuance of earthy Cabernet Sauvignon. Fresh acidity and low alcohol at the core of this wine lead to Cabernet Sauvignon and summer fruits. A dry finish and balanced acidity mean it is perfectly suited for al fresco dining and lighter fare. €8.50

2024 Kalamos Winery, Demetra Medium Sweet, Cabernet Sauvignon, PGI Pafos, ABV 12.5%

The Cabernet Sauvignon allows the wine to acquire its final rosy colour. This is a good, medium-sweet rosé, with a slight taste of some residual sugar. Intense rose colour, crisp and refreshing, intense flower, fruit, honey flavours, good firm structure, long luxurious spicy finish. Best food matching: excellent with Asian flavoured appetizers like spring rolls and chili sauce, salads, light pastas, and summer fruit. €8.50

2023 Kalamos Winery Mataro, PGI Pafos, ABV 13%

Medium deep crimson, graphite, purple fruit, red berries, soft ripe blackberry and plum, pepper and violets in the bouquet. Blackberry and a twist of spiced orange peel. It has swagger and some grunt but feels neatly tucked in. Great stuff. Full-bodied red wines like Mataro beg for rich foods to absorb the high tannin. Look for meats with lots of umami like beef short ribs, pork shoulder, barbeque, lamb, rabbit, pork sausage and veal. €8.50

2016 Kalamos Winery Merlot, ABV 12.5%

From the red collection on the tasting this aged Merlot raised eyebrows. Dark, almost opaque, garnet colour. The nose is fruit-forward with hints of oak and minerality, dry raisin and fig. Flavours are bright with berries, baking spices, dark chocolate and cola. Full-bodied with a hint of sweet oak on the finish. Best pairings are BBQ, marinated steak, chicken kebabs, ravioli and hard cheeses. €12.50

2019 Kalamos Winery Maratheftiko 12 months Oak ABV 13%

The 10% Opthalmo grape variety in this all-Cypriot wine along with the 12 months kept in French oak makes the difference. A wine of deep red colour with some violet hues. The nose shows black pepper and clove aromas, with good spiciness. Some coffee and mocha notes in perfect harmony with berries and currants, giving the feel of an elegant well-balanced wine. Nicely balanced in the mouth, with dark plum flavours and abundant spice. It is very elegant, soft, and silky. Pair with red meats and strong cheese. €15

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