A sense of Mediterranean togetherness reflected in Cypriot collection presented in Milan

In a love letter to the Mediterranean, fashion and textile designer Ilkan Koral recalls memories of a backyard drowned in the sunlight, the laughter around the lunch table and the warm sense of togetherness. A Summer Feast in Lapithosis a garment collection inspired by the Mediterranean summer banquets, the beauty of collective memory and handmade artisanal pieces, all intimately lived.

Presented during Milan Fashion Week, Koral combined his Cypriot roots with his Spanish soul to pay homage to slow living, and the essence of the wider Mediterranean region. The absence of a specific event which triggered the creation of the collection was replaced by decades’ worth of memories. “All my experiences, inspiration and emotions that have accompanied me over the years finally come together in this collection,” Koral told the Cyprus Mail. “The collection was not planned; it was more about trusting the process and believing that everything would align at the right time”.

Koral’s deisigns on the catwalk

It came together through the appreciation of slow moments familiar to those living in the region. The feeling of sitting around the table, sharing a meal with the people we love, being lost in conversation and time spent connecting. Koral feels that “those memories are still vivid, and even now, I live in a similar way. That warmth and sense of togetherness is really the essence behind this collection”. Through it he hopes to evoke that moment of abundance, truthfulness, embracing simplicity and celebrating the sweetness of doing nothing in particular.

The show in Milan

A Summer Feast in Lapithos was inspired by the town and its people, as Koral used to spend a lot of time there as a child, its tradition and craftsmanship directing the collection. By transforming local embroidery into a contemporary acknowledgement of centuries’ old talent, he believes that “beautiful crafts shouldn’t stay only as decoration in homes; they can also have a new life in modern fashion.” He collaborated with an elderly woman who taught him the traditional technique used in the collection, while her work is also featured on the garments. “Even though there’s about 50 years between us, we connected deeply through fashion and creativity,” said Koral.

The collection is not only an artistic narrative of the Mediterranean, but also a sustainable one. The fabrics tell a story of reinvention using organic cotton satin, recycled denim reconstructed with frayed threads, micro-fibres, delicate nets and hand-painted textiles. Koral said he feels the word ‘sustainability’ is used in different ways but the effort going into producing something truly sustainable rarely gets recognised. He worked with companies that champion complete transparency, used upcycled textiles and ensured that every step of the process is documented, while the dyes were all organic and chemical-free. “I plan to stay loyal to these practices because sustainability is not just a procedure – it’s part of my lifestyle and philosophy as a designer,” he said.

From the sun-washed tones to the textured walls and the sand, natural tones are central to the collection. The Mediterranean is overwhelmed by the colour blue, from the ceramics, the doors and windows to the sea and the sky and all those warm summer moments which define it. “Most of the collection is a direct reference to the Mediterranean table,” said Koral. He wanted to evoke the casual, spontaneous image of napkins thrown on the table, which is why the garments make use of distressed materials, conveying abundance and messiness. “I wanted the garments to feel grand, yet to have to have a sense of movement and spontaneity,” he said. The Spanish inspiration is evident in the handmade crochet, ruffles and flamenco-like silhouettes, while the blue tile and ceramic patterns are characteristic of Portugal and Italy.

Valuing the art of slowing down, togetherness and basking in the sun, the familiarity of the Mediterranean table is evident from many angles. From the loud arguing which can surround it, to the slow sipping of wine listening to the waves crashing on the coast, it’s something that cannot quite be placed. “It’s something that feels familiar to anyone from the region.”