Restaurant review: Stou Roushia, Larnaca

Some meals are planned weeks in advance. Others arrive courtesy of visiting friends. When our guests from abroad announced that they wanted “somewhere traditional”, the challenge began. Not because Cyprus lacks traditional tavernas, but because everyone has a different idea of what traditional means.

As it happened, there was already somewhere on my list that I had been meaning to try: Stou Roushia. Traditional food and with a sprinkling of some popular dishes from Greece.

Tucked away in downtown Larnaca, just a short stroll from Finikoudes, it occupies a lovely spot that feels slightly removed from the bustle of the seafront. The building has clearly been refreshed over the years. It still carries a traditional character, but everything feels clean, bright and well looked after. We were seated outside in the alleyway beside the restaurant; traditional shutters, potted plants, stone walls and a comfortable atmosphere that feels distinctly Cypriot without trying too hard.

Rather than each ordering our own main course, we decided to create our own little meze by choosing a selection of dishes to share. Looking around at other tables, this seemed to be a fairly popular approach.

The first dish to arrive was the choriatiki salad. Sometimes a salad is just a salad. This was not one of those occasions. The tomatoes were sweet and juicy, the sort that remind you what tomatoes are supposed to taste like. Alongside it came tahini that struck exactly the right balance. Creamy, smooth and with enough garlic and olive oil to give it character without either dominating.

The tirokafteri was equally enjoyable, rich enough to satisfy but still retaining a pleasant freshness. Then came the fried celery. This was one of those dishes that sounds unremarkable until you taste it. The batter was light, crisp and beautifully golden. More importantly, it tasted clean. You could actually taste the celery rather than the oil it had been cooked in. That became a recurring theme throughout the meal.

Next was the feta saganaki wrapped in pastry and drizzled with honey. The pastry shattered pleasingly under the fork while the feta inside remained soft and creamy. Sweet and salty combinations can sometimes feel overdone, but this worked very well.

The pastourmas was another pleasant surprise. It carried all the flavour you would expect but without becoming overpowering. We had only ordered one portion to share and that proved more than enough for the three of us to enjoy. Keftedes followed and continued the trend. Light, well-seasoned and again free from that heavy oily taste that can sometimes spoil fried dishes.

For mains we ordered mixed grilled chicken and lamb chops. The chicken was excellent. Even the breast pieces, which can often be dry, remained juicy and tender. The lamb chops were on the smaller side, although that seems to be increasingly common nowadays. What mattered was that they were cooked properly. Small chops can easily become dry and overcooked, but these remained succulent and full of flavour.

One thing that impressed me about Stou Roushia was the breadth of the menu. Beyond the dishes we ordered, there were plenty of traditional favourites that would tempt me back another time.

Perhaps that variety helps explain why the restaurant has grown beyond its original Larnaca location. Stou Roushia has since expanded with restaurants in both Nicosia and Kato Drys. Restaurants do not usually grow like that unless they are doing something right.

As the meal came to an end, we were offered a complimentary sweet treat. We politely declined because we already had plans for an evening stroll along the promenade followed by ice cream. The trouble was that moments later we spotted the dessert being served to another table. It appeared to be a creamy white dessert topped with something resembling jam. I spent the walk to the ice cream shop wondering what exactly we had turned down.

If I had to find a criticism, it would probably be the salad pricing, which felt slightly on the expensive side. Beyond that, there was very little to complain about.

Stou Roushia delivered exactly the sort of meal we had hoped for. Good food, pleasant surroundings, attentive service and an atmosphere that encourages you to linger a little longer than intended. I would happily return, and next time I might even accept that complimentary dessert.

VITAL STATISTCS

SPECIALTY Cyprus and Greek food

WHERE Stou Roushia, Nikolaou Laniti, Larnaca

WHEN Monday to Friday 1-11pm, Saturday 1-5pm and 7-11pm, Sunday 1-10pm

HOW MUCH Our meal for three was just under €90

CONTACT 24 400676