Pub food goes up a notch

This is my consumer conundrum. As with everyone else, I have certain expectations when I give any business my hard-earned money. However, I also do not want to see long-running or family-owned establishments go bust. So, if such a place falters in some way, I do my best to ignore its faults – to a point, of course. A version of this little dilemma played inside my head on our way to Shakespeare, a pub in Limassol’s tourist area in Yermasoyia.

When I went approximately a decade ago, the experience left something to be desired. However, the pub has always had a strong following. It seemed perennially full on weekends, particularly with football fans. Perhaps I had just been on an ‘off’ night.

To my surprise, the pub no longer looked the same. It no longer calls itself just a pub; it has added the ‘gastro’ prefix to it. Granted, I should have expected some changes after all this time. However, it seems to be more revolution than evolution.

The place has been completely refurbished. New layout, furniture, new TVs, rearranged exterior area. I suspect there has been a change in management. The abundance of Aris Limassol scarves, posters and other pieces of merchandise provide a subtle but distinct hint. After all, the team’s headquarters are not far away from the restaurant.

In any case, onto the crux of the matter. Was the food good? Yes, considerably better than I remembered.

We had chicken strips, salmon and a cheeseburger. The salmon steak was served over mashed potatoes, with a fennel and white wine sauce. While not the heartiest dish, it was very well cooked, with a subtle sophistication you wouldn’t expect from a pub. It was crispy on the outside, but tender and flaky on the inside, with just the right amount of oily richness from the salmon skin. The wine sauce was mild but not dull. The salmon was placed on top of some blanched spinach, itself atop the mashed potatoes.

The chicken strips (starter) were straightforward but good with a curry flavour coming across in the batter. The cheeseburger was also bang on the money, especially for its price. The meat was flavourful, not overcooked, and served with melted cheese in a soft bun. Some homemade fries were also served on the side. Again, not the biggest burger you’ll find, but at €10.50 it undercuts several Limassol pubs by €3-7. Oh, and a pint of local lager will set you back €4, which is pretty much the average for Limassol.

We then decided to split an apple pie. Instead of serving us one dish with two spoons (normal and absolutely fine), the pub split it in two (same with the vanilla ice cream) and served it on two different plates. It’s a small touch but it was a noticeable detail.

Would I go again? Yes. Our visit was on a quiet week night. I’m now keen to see how it fares on a busy Saturday with the football on.

VITAL STATISTICS

SPECIALTY Pub food

WHERE Shakespeare, Georgiou A Street, Limassol

WHEN daily 12pm-11pm, weekends 10am-11pm

HOW MUCH €6-10 for starters, €10-20 for mains

CONTACT: 25 326178